Goderich to Southampton, Ontario
Despite a desire to get on the road early, I did not get out of Goderichuntil after 10:30 AM. First I went back to the laundromat looking for theCampSuds® detergent I had left on the counter. It was not there. ThenI went for breakfast at Skippers, a typical breakfast stop, where I hadtwo orders of french toast. They were okay--not great.
There is a Gaol and museum in Goderich, but it was so late and my progresshad been so poor that I decided to forego the experience. For the life ofme, I could not recall what a Gaol was until I saw the building and pronouncedthe word.
Outside the museum is a monument to the salt industry in the area. LikeDetroit, this area has major salt deposits under it. This obelisk was cutout of salt and is housed in a glass display case or it would wash away.
While there was wind today, it was mostly from the west and not a headwindlike it has been. The sun was shining and I could tell instantly that thiswas going to be a good day.
I headed north on Ontario 21, but concluded that the intensity of trafficon 21 was getting to me and that I would take Huron County 25 inland toCounty Road 1 and ride inland all day. According to the woman at the MapleLeaf Motel in Goderich, I would not be lacking for services along the way--"thereare all sorts of little bergs."
As I proceeded north from Goderich, I had a great downhill to the river,but of course a grueling uphill at the other side. What a way to start theday. I left my jacket on, so soon got overheated.
Road 1 was very very nice riding. The traffic was light and there wasan 18" shoulder along most of it.
I have concluded already that Ontario gets my vote as right up therewith Kentucky and North Dakota for driver courtesy. The shoulders generallyaren't much, so conditions are ripe for vehicular conflict, but nobody yethas honked, yelled or shaken their fist at me in Ontario. On 21, I had acouple of trucks come at bit too close for comfort, but that was purelya consequence of space--there is only so much room for passing vehiclesand me.
The drivers probably don't realize just how serious it would be if mytire fell off the right edge into the gravel groove. I expect that I wouldfall over into the traffic lane and under their tires. That is why I soughtout an alternate route. Road 1 was everything I had been dreaming of. Iwould suggest that riders look earlier than I did for inland alternativesto 21.
While I did not see Lake Huron for most of the day, the farm scenes werevery nice. It didn't hurt a bit that the day was gorgeous. After a whileI took off my jacket and applied sunscreen. Oh, incidentally, I highly recommendBullFrog SPF 45 sunscreen. It definitely works and doesn't wash off withperspiration (or even soap and water).
This area has a lot of interesting old stone houses. It reminds me ofold Quebec. I am glad to see that the current owners are taking the effortto keep them up and make them look their best.
Even the commercial buildings -- the Holyrood General Store -- have thatold world charm.
Sometimes the craft offerings along the road are unique. I had neverseen these "Patio Peepers" before. These dolls are intended tobe arranged so that they are watching the garden, with their backs to you.
North of Lucknow, the road became downright deserted. In about 20 miles,only about 20 vehicles passed me. It was so open that I was lucky to havea side wind, not a headwind.
It is hard to properly edit digital images on an LCD monitor as laptopshave. This farm near Paisley is one of those incredibly artistic scenesthat I really enjoy photographing.
The cows all seemed to watch me go by with jealousy.
Paisley was a wonderful advantage of the Roads 1 and 3 alternative to21. The town has two rivers flowing in opposite directions, connecting thetwo sides of the Bruce Peninsula. The old mill is incredible--the whole36 acre site, including dam rights is for sale.
Downtown Paisley is charming.
Even the people are charming (and friendly). This is Kathy. She helpedme when I got lost and went down a dead-end street instead of out main streeton Road 3.
This is the Saugeen River (which flows to Lake Huron at Southampton).There were canoe races on the Saugeen this weekend.I understand that it is possible to spend 3 days canoeing the Saugeen. Imay just have to come back sometime with my kayak.
From Paisley, I had a brisk ride (I often have a burst of energy justbefore reaching my destination) into Southampton--a pleasant seaside community(since 1846) on Lake Huron. I rode around townfor a while, then a man said hello from his porch. He had a B&B: GreenGables. I had not tried the B&Bs in Canada, so despite having to removemy stuff from my bike, decided to stay there. That was a good choice. Patand Tom Marcotte are very nice people. They've lived in this 1896 housefor 26 years and it has that homey feeling.