Jasper, Alberta
July 4-6

The doldrums.

As I may have mentioned, when I lived in Fairbanks, I underwrote a public television show called "Adventure" on KUAC TV. One episode chronicled a man sailing solo around the world. Each day, he would turn on his video recorder for a few minutes to record his impressions. At a point in time, he reached the area of the South Pacific commonly known as "the doldrums" and was utterly becalmed for an extended period. As I recall it, one five minute segment consisted entirely of him saying "son-of-a-bitch" over and over again.

The human mind has a saturation point. After a month on the road, with only short breaks, followed by 6 days of mostly headwinds and mountain climbing, I reached the doldrums myself. I couldn't bear to sit another minute in my saddle. It was so bad, that the night I got here I walked the mile from my room to the townsite of Jasper just to avoid the bike.

I indulged myself. I slept late in the morning. I ate an ice cream cone. I called home and several friends from pay phones just to talk--despite the exorbitant cost. I ate out in a nice restaurant (I particularly enjoyed Fiddle River -- absolutely fantastic blackened red snapper with mango chutney--$37 CDN with beer, grand marnier & coffee). I tested some Alberta beers (I like several made by the Big Rock Brewery in Calgary, including Traditional Ale and Warthog). I walked all through town, shopping and relaxing -- getting my mind off bicycling to the extent possible.

I bought a bear bell for my bicycle. What, you ask, is a bear bell? Everthing I've ever read about bears has suggested that people in bear country make noise, by talking, rattling tin cans, etc. I didn't have anybody to talk to, so a Santa Claus sleigh bell affixed with velcro to my bike made a lot of sense. I was fully cognizant of the fact that sound could be ineffective due to my speed and the direction of the prevailing wind, but it was better than nothing. I affixed it immediately to the handlebar of my Cannondale.

I considered whitewater kayaking or some other physical activity and opted instead for relaxing. I get enough exercise bicycling.

The good news is I'm about half-way home. I have another week of big climbs through the Canadian Rockies followed by some mostly-downhill mountainous riding down to Montana. But then, I'll be heading downhill to the Mississippi with tailwinds all the way (I'm counting on it).

I love Jasper

Though Jasper is indeed a tourist town, with some of the typical tourist gift shops and street performers, it is far more.

 
Mr. Legs - Jasper street performer
This guy also rode a 10' high bike with his stilts, but I didn't get to the camera in time to get a picture of him on his bicycle.

Jasper is a really beautiful town with nice healthy people. All the people who appear to live here (waitresses, clerks, my landlords) look healthy--as though they actually use the outdoor resources which are right there to use.


main drag looking east

looking north
 
Jasper railroad station
(note use of winter clothes on July 4)


As I get more fit and trim, I start to realize that most people my age (especially I think in Michigan) are not. They don't get enough time off and don't make good use of their free time. As the bumper sticker says: "Kill Your Television." People need to get out and exercise their bodies and expand their minds. This trip is fantastic for that. I've noticed that even my reading eyesight is improving as a result of riding. I believe the bicycling along bumpy roads improves the muscle tone in my eyes as a result of the constant need to see the road ahead while moving up/down and sideways.

This part of the world is an outdoors enthusiast's paradise: mountain bike and hiking trails (everywhere); canoeing & kayaking (whitewater and placid lakes); whitewater rafting; fishing; mountain climbing; horseback riding; golf (18 holes right in Jasper) and, a panoply of winter sports. I want to come back sometime with my wife to experience this place together.

The Jasper townsite is surrounded by snow-capped peaks (and they're getting whiter as I stay here because it is extraordinarily cold and snow is accumulating high in the mountains--right now in July).


Unusually lousy weather - cold rain (snow at higher elevations)

There is one real unusual cost: $10 per day to Parks Canada just to be here in the park (camping out is extra yet). I'm told that next year, the folks who live here will have to pay the $10 each per day to remain in the park. I suppose it is fair. After all, even the Jasper townsite is inside the park and gets all the benefits of a National Park. I saw 7 elk walking to my room today (just dozing in the woods about 1 block from here).

For further information about Jasper use this link:

 

 

Healthy lifestyle

I'm feeling pretty good about what I'm doing for my body by taking this trip.

There was a man in the restaurant tonight who epitomized the aging effect of an unhealthy lifestyle. He'd had a bit too much to drink. I thought of him as an old man. He was neither fit nor trim; seemingly affected by drinking and smoking in excess for years. I was surprised to hear him say he was only 58, but he went on to say, he was "tiring of his life." How could anybody be tired of their life?

We all know the type: overweight, haggard, heart disease, etc. They've fallen into a trap and don't even know it. Here I am doing the physical feat of my life, feeling great about myself despite some health problems, and thinking how great it is to be alive. We eat too much, drink and abuse our bodies too much in the North American lifestyle (incidentally, I average less than 1 beer per week even though I had several this week--never more than 2 in a day for years). Physical fitness clearly helps reduce the likelihood of heart disease, cancer, stroke, and other life threatening diseases. Take it from me--at this stage in my life--a great adventure is what you need to revitalize yourself.

I spent 25 years sitting behind a desk practicing law. My penchant for multiple business activities left me too little time for the outdoors. We moved to Alaska because of the outdoors, but through the years found ourselves participating in less and less outdoor activity and finally reached a point where we wondered why we lived there. I'm still overweight, but I'm starting to lose some of it. My sleep disorder doesn't seem to be benefited by my better fitness and resultant weight loss as I had hoped, but this trip may just be the best thing I've ever done for myself--it may just change the way I live and extend my life by decades. There is overwhelming evidence that regular exercise and a healthy lifestyle reduces the risk of all major diseases. I'm sure I won't stop with this journey--that there will be many more such physical challenges.

While resting in Jasper, I decided it was time to evaluate some of my equipment and services. I am almost at the halfway point between Fairbanks and Williamston, Michigan, so I have developed some opinions. On a separate page, I've developed a Totally Subjective Preliminary Equipment Report.


 
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© Ed Noonan 1996, 1997