 Mt Kitchener (note snow cap "frosting" |
 Tangle Creek |
In retrospect, this was one of the finest days of my entire life. I will never forget it.
I got out of Beauty Creek at about 10:30 AM.
I stopped to talk to a northbound couple from North Carolina traveling for
about 3 weeks through Alberta and British Columbia and later a fellow from
Calgary who was riding for three weeks heading toward Price George. I traveled
1.5 miles by 11:09, but enjoyed talking to other riders.
It is an absolutely gorgeous day (67 degrees (f)). It is a clear day. That
makes a really big difference to me. I took a couple of pictures of Mt.
Kitchener because it had a snow cap that looked like frosting on a cake
(perhaps over 100' thick) as a result of the Columbia Icefield behind it.
| Mt Kitchener (note snow cap "frosting" |
Tangle Creek |
At mile 4.7 for the day, I started my ascent of Tangle Creek (Sunwapta Pass), one of the steepest climbs in the Rockies. It was a lot of work, but the good news is that there are a lot of good stopping points along the way--to give me a chance to catch my breath and wipe the sweat off my brow. It was very steep, but I just chugged along, not really breathing very hard. A motor home trying to pull a Ford Explorer failed and overheated. They had to disconnect the Explorer and drive it over the summit on its own power. I was pretty hot, but not boiling over.
 Looking back at how much I climbed part way up |
 Falls further up the hill (where a motor home overheated) |
I made it. There is nothing in the world like the feeling you get at the
top of one of these climbs. Nothing does more to build one's self confidence
that reaching the summit. I felt like king of the mountain at Summit Pass,
Steamboat and now Tangle/Sunwapta. From this trip I've learned that I can
do whatever I set out to do that is humanly possible. Challenges like this
take me beyond any doubts--to the point where I can say: "God Damn
it I can do it!" whatever the hell it is.
Of course, I didn't say I was fast. At 12:41, I'd gone 8.5 miles.
Then I reached the Columbia Icefields, the largest glacier in the Rockies.
There is a very institutional restaurant facility at the Icefields with
overpriced institutional food. I didn't like it at all.
Similarly there are overly touristy activities on the glacier.
The tourists look like a column of ants as they march single
file up the Icefield. Further up there are huge all terrain busses hauling
tourists across the Icefield. It all seemed too choreographed and touristy
for me. I was turned off and pedaled quickly on my way.
Just after the Icefields, I crossed from Jasper into Banff National
Park.
In my opinion, Jasper was a far better run park, but Banff has
more natural beauty to work with. Jasper was more people-friendly. They
have picnic tables, hand pumps for water and telephones at every rest stop.
Banff has almost no picnic tables, hand pumps or telephones in any place
but picnic areas (few and far between).
I stopped at the Hilda Creek Hostel just over the summit. There were people
just above the hostel downhill skiing (in July!! -- The Annual Totem Slushcup
-- put on by ski instructors at the two parks).
My bike thermometer registered 78 degrees (f) and people were
skiing down the mountain.
What a day! I had another one of
those goosebump rushes--it doesn't get better than this. I've been
saying that a lot, but, this is incredible, just incredible. Neither words
nor photos can do this part of the world justice.
As I went down the south side of Sunwapta Pass I stopped at a rest area
to take it all in.
The scene in front of me (actually all around me) is the single most beautiful vista I've ever seen. I sat there just taking it all in for about half an hour. This valley--the North Saskatchewan River (which flows to Hudson's Bay) is the most spectacular valley I've ever seen. I took numerous photos, but the camera just isn't up to the task of conveying the beauty (no camera would be--there's just too much there).
Not since tears of joy flowed from my eyes at the birth of my
daughter, have I ever felt so moved by anything. I was awestruck; absolutely
awestruck by this natural vista. I will be coming back.
I then rode down the steep pass (braking heavily due to traffic and narrow
shoulders--at one point I stuck my fist out and actually banged on a motorhome)
and stopped to view the Weeping Wall--a rock face with numerous small waterfalls.
I reached Rampart Creek Youth Hostel at around 4:00.
Rampart Creek Youth Hostel is the polar opposite of Beauty Creek.
Rampart is well run, clean and beautiful. The managers, Adia (ph)
and Jeff (from Quebec) do a wonderful job of managing this hostel.
It was a first class rustic accommodation. The other guests were from all
over: Brazil, Japan, Australia, Utah, England.
Sitting around the campfire with folks from other parts of the world ranks up there as one of my best life experiences. This isn't something we get to do much in America. I recall a similar experience when I talked at length with a girl from Yugoslavia at Hyde Park in London when I visited there as a college student. Such conversations give you vital perspective about your self, country, way of life, values, economy and beliefs. You come to appreciate more the similarities between all the peoples of the world and find yourself less likely to accept anti Semitism or racism. We do all have far more in common than we usually admit; especially when we're surrounded by the grandeur of nature. What a wonderful experience.
This is a beautiful place because nature/God made it so, and also because of the ambiance of this youth hostel.
There is a great sauna here and some excellent hikes/climbs.
38 miles.
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© Ed Noonan 1996, 1997