Glacier at Bow Lake on my departure
I ate breakfast at the hotel and rode toward Lake Louise only
40 km away. Lake Louise is one of those places that require a day off. It
is one of the most famous examples of the scenic beauty of this part of
the world.
I only rode 28 miles today and it was almost all down hill. I
didn't see any wildlife. I took only one other photograph.
I checked at the visitor information center about phone access
and accommodations, opting to camp at the National Park campground because
I'd heard the hostel was full (it was). I set up my tent and, on my bicycle,
I went shopping for some better fitting pants (unsuccessful). I locked my
bicycle to a bike rack and stowed my electronics pannier behind the counter
at the bicycle store. Then I went to the hostel, (it is a very nice new
facility with good restaurant) where I spent a rainy afternoon and evening
computing on their power, answering questions about the website and talking
to folks I'd met at the other hostels. Over the course of several hours,
literally dozens of people watched over my shoulder as I computed. The hostels
in Alberta are a really phenomenal resource--I've heard nothing but praise
for all but Beauty Creek (and I'm sure there are some folks who like even
Beauty Creek).
There are pay phones at the rest areas, hostels and campgrounds in Jasper
National Park, but no data input (RJ-11) ports. Banff National Park is far
more primative. There were no phones (or at most an emergency satellite
phone) at most Banff Park facilities I saw. The Youth Hostel at Beauty Creek
had only a pay phone and the hostel at Rampart Creek had only a solar powered
emergency satellite phone. The hotel at Bow Lake is served by satellite
phone only, and per the owner/manager, at this point I could best expect
300 bps data trasfer. When I got to Lake Louise, I expected full data access
to be readily available, but I was shocked to fail in my endeavor to connect
today, so I was unable to update the website as hoped. I've been told that
the nearest data access is in the town of Banff, about 60 km (37 miles)
away, but I was advised by locals to avoid the town of Banff on the premise
that it is nothing but a tourist trap. Wishing to make some progress in
my journey, I did hope to avoid Banff and get on my way toward Radium Hot
Springs. There were telephones in Lake Louise, but I couldn't get anybody,
including the visitor information center, to let me use theirs.
I planned the next day to see Lake Lousie itself and to head down the Bow
Valley Parkway to the turnoff toward Radium. Route 93 south from here has
a couple more tough mountain passes and appears to have very few services,
campgrounds or lodging facilities. I expected to be out of touch again for
a few days until I got close to Montana.
My campsite was quite nice; I was in a tent camping area, so didn't have to contend with motorhomes. There was one deficiency: I was located right behind the interpretive stage where park personnel gave a performance about glaciers. The presentation was excellent, but I was tired and had no choice but to watch the performance with about 100 other visitors before I could attempt sleep.
Bears are a problem in Jasper and Banff. Even at the huge National Park campground at Lake Louise (hundreds of campsites) campers must stow their food in bear-proof lockers in a building near the showers. I dutifully stowed mine there. I was more concerned about losing my food pannier than the food.
PS: 7/10/96 -- I am updating the site from the Chateau
Lake Louise, one of the nicest hotels I've ever seen--first class by any
standard. This is the sort of place my wife and daughter would want to stay
at. Some day soon perhaps we'll come back. The people here have been wonderful
to me. I'll put some pictures of the hotel and lake up when I next log on.
Right now I don't want to over use my welcome by taking the time to upload
the photos I took of the hotel this morning.
28 miles.
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© Ed Noonan 1996, 1997