Tunnel near Fernie, BC
I got up early (around 6:00) but entered data and waited for
Adventure Cycling to open up so I could request their input on my routing
east. I was disappointed. The folks answering the phones at Adventure Cycling
didn't seem to have any familiarity with the areas mapped--other than the
detail of the map itself. I had hoped for insightful input. I didn't get
it. I reviewed the AC maps and the Official Alberta Highway map (which is
missing some roads, like the Warner/Ft Steele road I rode on yesterday)
and talked at breakfast to some locals, deciding to continue on Hwy 6 through
Crowsnest and down to Waterton.
I got out relatively late (almost noon--the maid kept knocking at the door).
I passed through another tunnel.
My first stop was Fernie, a nice small "all services"
town with numerous motels, restaurants, stores and even a summer stock theater.
To relax a bit, I rode through town and stopped at the bike store.
I showed them my bike, but didn't buy anything as they felt everything looked
okay. They had a nice clothing collection, but nothing local (which is what
I look for).
They had a "The Bob" on display. I've mentioned them
before as a really good way to haul a heavy load while maintaining a low
center of gravity. Here's what they look like. They attach to the rear hub
and ride below axle level, so the center of gravity is real low. I saw one
hauling about 100 lbs. behind a tandem near the Alaska/Yukon border. The
couple pulling it said they loved it (I saw several
across the continent).
From Fernie, I commenced a long slow (2-4% grade) climb into
the mountains. This is coal country. There are basically 3 main components
in the economy of this part of BC/Alberta: mining on public land; grazing
on public land and logging on public land. I'm not real enamoured with any
of the three. I suppose I would be less negative if fair market rates were
paid for the use of the public lands, but, clearly we all subsidize the
people who use our land. And, the impact is very much evident. Open pit
or deep rock mining leaves its mark. Clear cutting is horrible to behold.
Grazing changes the ecosystem, thereby affecting the viability of elk and
other species.
Mining is big business.
On the way out of Fernie, I saw a lone rider zooming along the
other way. We both waived. After departing from Sparwood (where I bought
another BC sticker for my flag and some AllSports drink (ycch)), I saw the
same rider heading in my direction--he gained on me like I was standing
still. When he, Stan from Stirling, Alberta, caught up with me, we rode
together to Crowsnest Pass and talked about my trip and modifications he
had made and was contemplating making to his bike so he could ride it safely
with only one arm. Stan had placed his rear brake and shifter on the left
side of his handlebar and was developing a way of connecting the front brake
to the same lever. He had some steering leverage from his right shoulder.
Unladen, he'd pull ahead of me on the hills, fierce headwinds and all, and
wait for me at the top.
I was real impressed by Stan's fortitude.
Because I got going late in the day, I decided to stay at the
Inn on the Border right at the top of Crowsnest Pass (where the headwinds
were ferocious). The Inn is right on the border between BC and Alberta--the
dining room and my bedroom were in BC, while the kitchen was in Alberta.
This is also the Continental Divide: BC water goes into the Pacific; Alberta
water flows to the Atlantic.
The Inn was an old turn-of-the century roadhouse that looked its age (it
was a bit run down). Dinner was good. The rooms were typical B&B (no
electrical outlets at all) and the bath was down the hall.
There were only 2 other guests, a couple from Paris, France.
They spoke some English; I spoke almost no French, but we conversed
at length in the dining room. They were cyclists at home in France. He (I
forgot his name) had long fantasized about a trip like mine.
A collie slept against my door all night.
56 miles.
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© Ed Noonan 1996, 1997