Rancheria - Watson Lake, Yukon
June 13

It was real pretty here yesterday.

Kodak DC50 photos (by Nelson Kibler)


Rancheria River view (Left) 6/12/96


Rancheria River view (right) 6/12/96

It was raining and 35 degrees when we got up this morning. I hated to get up. It felt real nice in my warm sleeping bag and I could see it wasn't nice out at all. Then it got worse. IT SNOWED.


Snow Storm in June at Rancheria
Casio QV30 photo

Today was our worst day to date. We were all chilled to the bone. Nelson and I decided not to expose our cameras to the rain, so we didn't take them with us (we put them in the baggage trailer on the sag van). We all dallied at breakfast, not wanting to actually step out into the snow or rain.


Karen, Bill, Judy, Mike, Ritt, Tom
Casio QV30 photo

I wore my Polartec top, Bellwether bike pants, full Bellwether rain suit, Polartec hat, Tim's neoprene rain booties (he rode in the sag van), my full fingered Specialized bike gloves, my Prima Loft vest, bike shorts, a bike jersey-- and I still froze all day long. Uphill, I sweated profusely and downhill I froze. At rest and food stops I froze even more. I know I was doing it all wrong, but I was so cold I couldn't stand it. Several times I considered flagging down the sag van or bailing out to some lodge, but, there were just enough hills (3,150' vertical) to keep me warm enough to avoid hypothermia and I managed to make it to Watson Lake.

We were also bothered a bit by warnings from several folks about a sow Grizzly Bear with her cubs in the immediate vicinity of Rancheria. The lodge owner noted that the game folks had clocked one at 53 kph. So, at the first lunch stop, all 9 of us were there at the same time. Nelson and I were pumping so hard (no extra handlebar bags or panniers) that we kept Bob in sight all the way to the first lunch stop. Bob is faster than greased lightning (even in the snow, sleet or rain).

They say you don't need to be faster than a grizzly bear--just faster than somebody else.

After lunch, the weather tempered a bit and I actually removed some of my layers of clothing. I also fell back with Ritt and Carol once again to watch the birds. We stopped for coffee outside Watson Lake at a place that billed itself as the "best coffee shop in the Yukon." We don't know how they determined that, since they'd only been in business for 1 day. The coffee was good--but to three absolutely frozen bicyclists, warm dishwater would have been interesting. Burning 9,000 calories a day, we'd eat anything--and we do eat everything in sight.

We built a campfire and warmed up in the evening.


Nelson, Judy,Tom, Bob, Carol, Bill, Karen, Ritt & Ed (Mike & Tim missing)
Kodak DC50 photo

Ritt was attempting to teach Bob how to juggle.


Ritt & Bob juggling
Kodak DC50 photo (by Nelson Kibler)

It is a whole lot colder in June in the Yukon than it ever is in Singapore and Tim was suffering from the cold, so he rented a room at a nearby motel. We were scheduled for a day off in Watson Lake, so I decided to rent a room too in order to get the website up to date.

Flying a helicopter into Watson Lake one time, I was routed over the lake. I didn't like flying over water, but followed the control tower's orders. The air over a body of water can be really "squirrelly." We hit an incredible updraft and came within about 3 degrees of rolling over backwards. It is almost impossible to do a barrel roll in a helicopter; you have to apply power downward to recover and there isn't room to do so before you hit the ground. We were really shaken up figuratively and literally.

 

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© Ed Noonan 1996, 1997