Henderson Inn, Rugby, ND
The motel was old but nice.
I got up real early (5 something) suffering from a bad migraine
headache. I took some pain medication and went back to bed. I had arranged
to leave at around 6:30 with Rod and Kelly, but realized quickly that I
wouldn't be able to go then due to the headache. At about 6:30, I went to
Rod & Kelly's motel room and informed them that I'd be delaying my departure.
They actually left around 7:00. By the time I waited for the medication
to take effect, ate breakfast and got on my way it was 10:00 AM.
The big question then for the day, was whether I could catch up with Rod
and Kelly; whether I could push hard and take up any slack they might leave
me. Into headwinds, they beat me hands down. On their tandem, they have
the same wind resistance as me, but two people pedaling. I think that on
the flats I am equal to, or possibly even a bit stronger, than them. So
whether I would catch up depended mostly on the wind and how long and hard
they rode.
As of 10:40 AM, there was no wind at all. I stopped at a rest area 10 miles
out, then started a long slow uphill grade. I seemed to be climbing forever.
There were numerous such long grades--always uphill. I started to wonder
if there had been some sort of major seismic event that I'd missed while
riding from Alaska, by which the Mississippi River valley had transformed
into the Mississippi Mountain range--higher and tougher to climb than the
Rockies. Without being initially apparent, the sensation of climbing was
bolstered by rising headwinds.
The shoulders today were wonderful: 12 feet wide and paved identically to
the highway.
Just before Leeds, I came upon a bad accident. It appeared that a car ran
full speed into a piece of road repair equipment. I'd seen several signs
along the highway warning of construction equipment ahead; somehow the driver
had ignored them. If drivers can run into a stationery object despite adequate
warning, it is particularly ominous for bicyclists.
I stopped at Leeds for lunch (at the only restaurant). I got talking there
with several farmers seated family style with me at a large series of tables
(the separate tables and booths were all occupied).
They told me that Devil's Lake is real unusual because it has no inlet or
outlet.
The water comes primarily from spring runoff through "coolees",
depressions that flow only during the spring. There are no streams or springs--just
natural channels for the flow of spring snow melt. The lake is currently
over 75,000 acres and about 37' deep. In the 30's, it shrunk down to as
little as 75 acres. Right now the lake is flooding and consuming adjoining
farmland. The farmers are now contemplating constructing an outlet. Years
ago, I was told there was a natural outlet, but because it was seldom used,
the channel filled in and disappeared. Now, the farmers are thinking of
spending millions of dollars to make the lake levels more stable. I asked
about nitrate and phosphate levels in a lake like this. Lake Lansing in
Haslett, Michigan is similar. Its only source is runoff from adjoining property.
Lake Lansing is experiencing serious nitrate and phosphate pollution due
to fertilizer used on lawns and farms in the watershed. I was told that
because Devil's Lake comes almost exclusively from snow melt, there is less
runoff from farms, so the problem (though there is one) with fertilizer
is minor.
The folks in the restaurant in Leeds took a special effort to explain the
area to me. It was wonderful to have people be so helpful. I was told that
this area is the primary US source (over 90%) of Durham wheat--used for
pasta. They said they were in the process of constructing their own cooperative
pasta factory. I am impressed to see farmers make that sort of investment
to stabilize their incomes. Instead of being at the mercy of the market
when their crops come in, they produce the end product which is far more
stable in price.
The farmers told me that this area of North Dakota (and extending
into Minnesota) is the primary source of numerous crops, including canola,
safflower, barley (for beer), etc. The wheat farmers were concerned about
"scab." They'd had a heavy rain (2-1/2 inches in a day), then
little wind over the following couple of days to dry out the crop, so they
were worried that disease would set in.
The farmers verified too that Rod and Kelly were indeed 3 hours ahead--that
they came through town around 10:00. I got there around 1:00.
A wind sock at the airport east of Leeds showed headwinds--not real strong
winds, but enough to dampen my spirits. My 12' shoulders shrunk to concrete
shoulders about 24". They were okay. After all, this is North Dakota,
where the drivers are more courteous than anywhere I've ridden.
By Church's Ferry, the headwinds were at about 7-8 mph and it had warmed
to 87 degrees (f). I was starting to tire with only 40 miles under my belt.
Between Church's Ferry and Penn, I saw the first old barn I'd
seen in weeks. It was a real nice one.
There are wetlands along most of US-2 in North Dakota (on both
sides of the highway and often in the median). The state has apparently
established protections for the wetlands and there are large populations
of waterfowl. There are signs all along the road prohibiting mowing in the
highway right-of-way.
The "Welcome to Devil's Lake" sign says "home
of Leonardo's Pasta." By the time I reached the town of Devil's Lake
(a modern town with McDonalds, etc), I was exhausted and hungry. I saw an
add for a place with sundaes and decided I wanted a real ice cream milk
shake. I got a great chocolate shake at Mr. J's and Mrs. J's in Devil's
Lake.
The drivers have been great all day. Even though I've been riding
on the shoulder all day, almost every car passed me in the left lane (of
the 4 lane), thereby giving me more than 20'. Out of 100 cars, I'd estimate
only 1 would be in the right-hand lane. Typically, that car was somebody
from someplace like Michigan, Wyoming or New Jersey--not North Dakota. I
am certain that 100% of North Dakota drivers would give me the entire right
lane--never considering driving in the right lane though I was on the shoulder.
I wish drivers everywhere would be so courteous.
For weeks, I've been wondering just how heavy my bike was. I've sent a lot
of gear home, but suspected the bike still weighed 85-90 lbs loaded. I stopped
at Lakes Region Livestock Auction in Devils Lake and asked if they could
weigh the bike. We trudged through the manure to the scale. (I couldn't
take a picture--the lights were off). My estimate was right on target: 85
lbs (with 2-1/2 water bottles, a banana, a pear and an apple). That means
that all through Alberta and the parks, I was propelling something like
110-130 lbs up the hills/mountains.
From Devil's Lake I called ahead and made a motel reservation in Lakota--26
miles down the road. By the time I dragged in there, it was almost 9:00
PM. By the time I took a shower and changed, the dining room was closed
but the coffee shop was open 24 hours, so I ate there and went almost immediately
to bed (after checking my e-mail). I didn't catch Rod & Kelly--and maybe
never will. Oh well.
86 miles.
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© Ed Noonan 1996, 1997