Working Wisconsin farm
I got out early: 7:06 AM.
The weakest link of the Adventure Cycling maps is their failure to supply
any information at all about food sources. Looking at the AC map of the
Shawano area did nothing to aim me toward a breakfast source. Downtown Shawano
seemed to be totally closed on Sunday morning. The place was totally dead.
Even bakeries and cafes were closed. I spent at least half an hour riding
down side streets looking for a place to eat. I managed eventually to find
Flamingo's Family Restaurant where I ate a double order of french toast.
Another gripe with the AC maps is their use of the road number without the
street name. AC routed me down Route 22 through Shawano to the south. There
were no route numbers displayed anywhere, but on inquiring at a service
station, we determined that AC meant for me to head south on Main Street.
The service station attendant had never heard of route 22, but on looking
at the AC map, he realized that I was looking for Main Street.
On Route 187 north of Leeman, 2 deer ran across the road. I wasn't quick
enough with my camera to take a picture. I have to open the handlebar bag
and remove the camera from its case--all of which takes 2 hands, so I had
to stop the bike.
Crossing US 41--a major north-south [all the way to
Florida] artery (4 lanes/divided) took over 10 minutes. The traffic
was fast and unbelievably dense.
At 4:22, I'd ridden 69 miles but had no idea where I was going to spend
the night. Looking at the AC map, Sherwood (off route a couple of miles)
looked promising, so I headed there. Headwinds were a problem for most of
the day and I was getting tired. I missed the Elm Road cutoff (never saw
a sign) and ended up in Sherwood via a more direct route. The problem was;
there were no accommodations there. Asking folks barbecuing in their yard,
I was informed that the one place listed on the AC map was a condominium
development and not available on a nightly basis. They suggested I ride
to Brillion--about 10 miles east. I took County Road B toward Brillion:
an excellent newly paved road. From B, though I was forced for a short distance
onto a trunk road--57. There was no shoulder, so I took an aggressive stance
when oncoming traffic was present--I took the lane, riding down the middle.
One idiot was in such a hurry, that he passed me, going over the double-yellow
lines despite an oncoming car. The oncoming car was forced off the road.
I don't know why some drivers think they can cross the yellow line when
passing me. It is NEVER legal to cross over a double yellow line.
When I arrived in Brillion it was almost dark. There was only one motel,
but it was very nice. Sunday eating options included: DQ, Hardees, Subway
and "a fancy supper club down the street--its expensive, you don't
want to go there." Though the "supper club" sounded interesting,
it was too far to walk as tired as I was, so I went to Hardees (hamburger)
and DQ (sundae).
Wisconsin license plates have long proclaimed this to be "America's
Dairyland." This is a farming state devoted predominately to the production
of dairy products. Dairy cows eat huge quantities of corn, so (I learned
this living in Michigan--also a dairy state) there are cornfields everywhere.
By growing their own feed, farmers aren't as much at the mercy of the market
pricing.
Midwest farms are the epitome of the family farm image. Many
of the farm houses and barns are genuine works of art.
When I was practicing agricultural law, I bought a coffee table book called:
Crop Art. It was a book full of photos of crops grown in patterns, some
purely artistic others to resemble billboards. A great book. Even simple
patterns in plowing and tilling can be aesthetically pleasing.
The farms and barns are often more than 100 years old and loaded
with antiques, some of which are visible from the road (things like lightening
rods--to ground out the high point on the roof of the house). Many of the
barns have been remodeled to accommodate huge modern farm machinery, while
some farms have newer buildings for the heavy machinery. The farm houses
are typically surrounded by big shade trees, like an oasis in the field.
Many of the farms have a woodlot where they produce enough firewood and
maple syrup for their own needs.
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These aren't typically very large farms (a few hundred acres
or less). The work is backbreaking and never-ending (the cows produce milk
rain or shine, 7 days per week, 365 days per year). The dairy farmers need
always to be there working. Typically the whole family participates every
day. The economic rewards are meager. To make ends meet, many of the farmers
now work other full time jobs.
90 miles.
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© Ed Noonan 1996, 1997