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I had no idea how far it was or how long it would take me to
get to Manitowoc and the ferry across Lake Michigan, so I got out as soon
as possible: 6:15 AM. I ate at Rudy's Diner in downtown Brillion (an unremarkable
town), leaving there at 6:47 AM. The folks in Brillion were incredibly supportive
of my trip and positive about cyclists. Apparently, a group of 400 cyclists
had gone through Brillion a few days before on some sort of tour and everybody
seemed elated that I was there. That helped me to get off to a positive
start.
PP, the road out of Brillion had little or no shoulders, but was relatively
lightly traveled (at least at 7:00 AM) so I enjoyed my ride. It is 5 miles
from Brillion to County Road JJ, the AC route.
Going on with my theme regarding Midwest farms, I'd been noticing for the
last couple of days that the Wisconsin farms seem often to be part of some
sort of marketing group. Names we know, like Land-O-Lakes and Foremost,
seemed most prolific.
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I assume that the farms remain owned by the farmers (Land-O-Lakes
"member farm" and Foremost "group"), but I gather big
business is getting involved in ownership. This may signal the demise of
the family farm.
Ever since I left Fairbanks, I'd been carrying a partial roll of toilet
paper on the bike all the time (even on the Alaska Hwy segment)--for an
emergency. This is the sort of event people don't like much to talk about,
but, in the openness of this website, I need to relate it. It was probably
something I ate, but I experienced severe intestinal incontinence today,
to the point that I was desperately seeking a restroom out in the farmlands.
It wasn't looking very promising. I was thinking of using the corn fields
and getting quite uncomfortable on my bike, when I spotted a boat launch
ramp sign. I zoomed down to the launch ramp and sure enough--spotted an
outhouse. Upon entering the outhouse to seek relief, I discovered there
was no toilet paper. Voila, I had my spare roll. It saved the day. It was
worth the 2 ounces carried all these thousands of miles. TP--don't leave
home without it.
There were some large wetlands west of Manitowoc.
At Clarksville, Wisconsin, I ran across a few acres of artistically
bent cedar and a man (James J. Newmeyer--"JJ"--JJ's Lumber &
Log Homes) working on a cedar stump with a chain saw.
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He said he sells log homes and lumber and makes custom furniture
(out of cedar, oak and white ash--"good wood, you know--the stuff that
lasts forever).
Along JJ, I came upon another "Road Closed" sign and a detour.
As I've learned to do, I ignored the signs and proceeded ahead. I reached
a stretch of about 1/4 mile that had just been bulldozed. Not seeing anybody
to stop me or any real hazards, I geared down to my granny gear (the small
ring on the front) and proceeded ahead. I had to hop off the bike for a
couple of 6' sections of soft sand, but otherwise made it all the way across
the work area. At the other side, I came upon some men taking a break in
a tool shed. I asked if this was the extent of it. They said, yes, that
I'd already gone through all the work area.
At the Manitowoc visitor information center, I obtained detailed
directions to the ferry; the AC map described the route too. I headed down
to the waterfront.
What a thrill--after all these weeks to see Lake Michigan--and know I was
getting real close to home now.
I arrived at Manitowoc around 10:30 to find that the ferry was
full; there was no room for vehicles or passengers. They put me on a "waitlist"
(number 3 for passengers) and told me my chances were good. I decided to
ride to town for lunch.
I ate a Reuben at the Colonial Restaurant in downtown Manitowoc
(good) after rolling my bicycle into the coat room. After lunch, I rode
around the downtown looking at the huge grain and malt elevators.
 grain elevator, Manitowoc, Wisconsin |
 Budweiser malt elevator |
I decided to take a swim at the beach near the ferry dock. The
wind was toward shore, so there was considerable seaweed and debris in the
water, making it undesirable for swimming, but the beach was nice.
I was told to be back at around 12:30 for a 1:00 departure. I
actually waited until almost 1:00 to find out whether I'd make it on the
boat.
I think all 36 waitlisted passengers made it, as did the vehicles.
It was a full boat though.
During the lake crossing I sat on deck and talked to Terry from Silicon
Valley, California about the computer industry and this website, which I
showed to her and some of the other passengers. In the 50 mile crossing,
land was only out of sight for a few minutes.
For entertainment during the 4 hour crossing, the ferry offered
a couple of movies and Karaoke. The Karaoke was fun. The participants ranged
from very shy kids--who had to be coaxed, to some really polished adults.
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One man did an absolutely perfect rendition of Ray Charles' "wonderful
world."
Ludington looked great.
 Ludington Harbor |
 A small boat marina at Ludington |
I was back in Michigan, my wife was waiting for me on the dock
and I'd be home in just a couple more days.
We ate dinner at PM Steamers, an upscale (relatively expensive) restaurant
located across the street from the small boat harbor in downtown Ludington.
The food was great.
We stayed at a motel across from the breakwater and lighthouse:
and walked (along with a lot of other folks) out to the lighthouse
at sunset:
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38 miles.
  Wisconsin - Michigan |
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 Tailwinds Home Page |
© Ed Noonan 1996, 1997